Every answer to a software development question starts with āIt dependsā¦ā
With that in mind, it dependsā¦
Iāve spent the last 25+ years flipping between development and testing. When I have been testing, there has been a lot of automation involved. Also development of test tools. But a big part of identifying automated tests has been manual, exploratory testing. Also clarifying requirements and hunting down test cases specified or suggested within those requirements. Sometimes you need to lean into code a bit more (for example, non-functional testing of highly application-specific functionality), but often you do not.
Some things that I advocate right now are developers taking responsibility for their work by doing their own testing - and also synchronous teamwork in pairs or mobs. These sorts of things are ripe opportunities for a manual tester to take advantage of.
Because of this advocacy, I get people telling me (a lot) about how developers donāt have a ātesting mindsetā and are awful at testing, as a result. That they only focus on validating that software works, rather than investigating where it can fail. My standard response is that it isnt a skill issue, but a training issue. However, there are obvious opportunities for someone with testing expertise.
If developers are not very good at identifying test cases, a testing expert can identify tests for a coding expert to implement. It isnt necessarily the case that itās an either/or situation. And research into applicable test cases (that is, exploratory testing) is definitely something a manual tester can do.
There are also opportunities for pairing and mobbing with developers, filling the skills gap with your testing expertise and experience. Coaching them into good approaches to quality. It does depend on the flexibility of your environment (especially in terms of switching from working in isolation, to working with others directly) and whether your management has a fixed view of what is needed, or are open to suggestions from a testing expert.
I certainly do not see it as a dead end, if you are not interested in coding. Itās not entirely straightforward, either. You need to take hold of your career progression, instead of letting others decide it for you.